Week #14: Twin Arches
The Spring Hiking Challenge concludes with a short hike to the Big South Fork's most famous landmark
Twin Arches
Trailhead: Twin Arches
Trail Type: Loop
Payoff: Rock formations, views
Distance: 1.4 miles
Elevation Gain: 100 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
It seems like such a long time ago that the calendar was flipping to spring with the arrival of the spring equinox (when there are equal parts of daylight and darkness each day) and the Spring Hiking Challenge began with a hike to Sunset Overlook.
Now we’re on the cusp of summer. The summer equinox — the longest day of the year — is on Sunday, June 21, and we’re concluding the Spring Hiking Challenge with our 14th and final hike, which takes us to the most famous landmark in the Big South Fork National River & Recreation Area: Twin Arches.
For many years in the mid 20th century, the Twin Arches had a sort of mythical status. It was rumored that there were giant rock formations deep in the forest, but they were located so far back — and getting to them was so rough — that most folks never saw them. A few hardy souls bounced along the rutted logging roads in their jeeps, but for the most part, the arches stood sentry over the surrounding forest landscape in relative obscurity.
Today, the Twin Arches are known to be the largest natural land bridge in the State of Tennessee, and one of the largest in the world. They’re perhaps the single most-visited natural feature in the Big South Fork backcountry, attracting thousands of visitors each year to marvel at these spectacular landforms.
Getting to the Twin Arches requires a short hike that’s not too difficult, and there is a lot to see besides just the rock themselves.
To get there, take S.R. 297 west through the Big South Fork NRRA to S.R. 154 in Fentress County. Turn north onto S.R. 154 for approximately one mile, then turn right onto Divide Road. Follow Divide Road to the second right, which is Twin Arches Road. The trailhead is located at the end of the road. There are picnic and toilet facilities available.
Mile 0.0: The trail begins at a well-maintained trailhead near the end of the ridge that the Twin Arches are located on. This is the Twin Arches State Natural Area, which is comprised of about 1,500 acres and is one of two state natural areas managed by the National Park Service within the BSF (the other is Honey Creek).
Mile 0.05: Mountain laurel is prominent on either side of the trail to begin the hike. We’ve seen mountain laurel on almost all 14 of the hikes we’ve been on this spring. It is one of the most prominent understory shrubs in the Big South Fork region, typically growing in abundance on well-drained ridgetops near the rim of the gorge. And this trail is indeed near the rim of the gorge. If you look to your right, you’ll notice a huge valley. This is the upper reaches of what we know as Station Camp Creek, which empties into the Big South Fork River at Station Camp. What you’re actually looking at here is the place where Mill Creek, Andy Creek, and Middle Creek come together, at a site commonly referred to as Jake’s Place for Jacob Blevins, who lived there with his wife, Viannah West, in the late 1800s.
Mile 0.12: The trail begins to descend slightly. It leaves the laurel thicket for a brief stretch and enters a mature hardwood forest. The forest here is made up of scarlet oak, chestnut oak, white oak, red maple, sourwood, and blackgum, among other species.
Mile 0.19: It’s not so obvious now, with foliage on the trees, but if this were the cold season, when the trees are bare, you’d be able to see a powerline support tower on the horizon to your right. It’s part of the TVA distribution lines that supply power from the Wolf Creek Dam on the Cumberland River in Kentucky to Oak Ridge in Tennessee. You passed beneath those lines three times on your way in — twice on Leatherwood Road near the Big South Fork entrance outside Oneida, and again on Divide Road just before reaching the Twin Arches Road turnoff. The lines run southeast through the BSF, eventually crossing U.S. Highway 27 at New River and then going over the Cumberland Mountains at Brimstone before winding up at Oak Ridge.
Mile 0.22: The first steps come into view. Mile-for-mile, the Twin Arches Loop has more ladders and staircases than any other trail in the Big South Fork. This isn’t one of them, though. These steps are merely built into the hillside. There are much more impressive steps to come.
Mile 0.23: Rhododendron plants grow amid the mountain laurel on the left side of the trail. This is somewhat unusual, though it’s not the first time we’ve seen it on this hiking challenge. Typically, laurel grows on the well-drained ridgetops that receive partial sun, while its cousin, the rhododendron, grows in the moist, shaded lower-lying areas. That’s why rhododendron is usually found at the base of the bluff lines and laurel is found at the top of them. Obviously, there are exceptions.
Mile 0.26: The trail splits and the loop section begins. You can take either direction and you’ll wind up back here later. We prefer to hike the trail by taking the left fork and hiking in a clockwise direction. Immediately after turning left, if not for the foliage on the trees, you’d be able to see a dominant cliff line in the distance.
Mile 0.28: The trail arrives at its first ladder. These are steep wooden steps. Use caution with children and pets; to slip is to risk almost certain injury.
Mile 0.31: The trail has now arrived at the base of the bluff line, and will follow it to the arches.
Mile 0.35: Having left the mountain laurel behind at the top of the ladder, rhododendron is now the predominant understory shrub and can be seen in abundance along the trail. Both laurel and rhododendron bloom during the warm months — laurel in late spring and rhododendron in summer.
Mile 0.45: Notice the large valley to the left. This is Charit Creek, which eventually heads up near the intersection of Divide Road and Terry Cemetery Road. It empties into Station Camp Creek at Charit Creek Lodge in the valley below. One theory is that the creek got its name from a girl named Charity who drowned in the stream, but no one knows who this Charity was. Hemlocks now become very common along the trail. You’ll notice the painted dots at the bases of the trees, signifying that they have been treated for the hemlock woolly adelgid that currently infests the Big South Fork region and kills hemlock trees.
Mile 0.49: That huge cliff face that was visible from the top of the ladder is now much more clearly seen through the trees to the left side of the trail.
Mile 0.53: The first arch — the North Arch — comes into view in the distance.
Mile 0.58: Notice the honeycomb feature in the rock wall. This honeycomb is a type of weathering found in many rock faces, including sandstone and granite. It’s caused by the disaggregation of mineral grains through forces such as wind.
Mile 0.64: The trail arrives at North Arch. This is the smaller and least photogenic of the Twin Arches. It stands at 62 ft. high, with a span of 93 ft. and a ground clearance of 51 ft. You’ll walk across this arch on the way out. Beneath the arch is where the Twin Arches Inner Loop intersects with the Twin Arches Outer Loop. More on that later.
Mile 0.67: There is another set of steep wooden steps to the right, leading to the top of the arch. Skip the ladder and walk through the trees straight ahead. South Arch is just around the bend. Along the way, you’ll notice the other intersection for the Twin Arches Outer Loop.
Mile 0.72: The trail arrives at South Arch. When you look at photos of the Twin Arches, they’re usually taken at South Arch. This is the biggest of the two, with a deck height of 103 ft., a clearance of 70 ft. and a span of 135 ft.
Mile 0.77: After leaving South Arch and retracing your steps, you’ll arrive back at the stairs that lead to the top of North Arch. This is the way back to the vehicle.
Mile 0.8: The trail arrives at the top of the arch. The edges aren’t protected; use caution with pets and small children as you walk across the top of the arch.
Mile 0.87: The trail reaches the longest ladder or set of steps so far. The good news is that it’s also the last that you’ll have to climb.
Mile 0.88: At the top of the steps, don’t forget to turn around and admire the view. It’s a panoramic offering of the Station Camp Creek valley, and what a view it is.
Mile 1.06: The trail arrives back at the intersection. Continue straight ahead to retrace your steps to the parking lot.
Scavenger Hunt: Take some time to explore around the southernmost base of South Arch and see what you find. We’re looking for a passageway through the rock that’s informally known as “Fat Man’s Squeeze.” Yes, it is a squeeze. No, you won’t get stuck. The tunnel emerges on the south side of the base, and a footpath leads back around to the main arch. Take a picture of it and tag it with the #SpringHikingChallenge hashtag on social media to be entered into this week’s random prize drawing.
Make It Better: The 1.4-mile Inner Loop is great. But the 5.6-mile outer loop is even better! After you leave South Arch and return to the staircase leading to the top of North Arch, turn right onto the Outer Loop and complete the entire loop. You’ll re-emerge beneath the South Arch after five miles. It’s a moderate hike that includes about 750 ft. of elevation gain. Along the way, you’ll visit the picturesque Charit Creek Lodge, where you can have a trail lunch (consisting of sandwich or wrap, chips, trail mix, energy bar and drink) waiting on you if you book two days in advance at ccl-bsf.com. You can also find wine, beer, drinks and snacks. You’ll also visit the Tackett Bros. gravesite, where two teenage boys were buried after they died while attempting to escape conscription into the Confederate army during the Civil War, and Jake’s Place, which was discussed earlier. Along the climb back to South Arch, you’ll pass the site of the first industry in the Big South Fork – niter mining to make gunpowder (it won’t be noticeable from the trail).
Be Careful For: Steep staircases and unprotected rock ledges are the hazards on this hike. Use caution with pets and small children.
Please Remember: Hikers are encouraged to obey the “Leave No Trace” ethic. “Leave only footprints, take only memories.” Please do not litter! Also, remember that while all trails in the Big South Fork are dog-friendly, all dogs must be leashed and kept within six feet.
Document Your Hike: Record your participation on this week’s hike by taking a photo of you and your group and tagging it with the #SpringHikingChallenge hashtag on social media (make sure the post privacy is set to public!) or emailing newsroom@ihoneida.com.